Sunday, 25 December 2011
65 litres of what?
I can put tent, sleeping bag, (a few) clothes in 35 litre rucksack with food....but now going to some urban travel and I have 65 litre rucksack to fill (and sleeping bag and mat inside, because I fly)...but what have I put there? tooooo many clothes. OK I need to look normal, plus I have flute in the hand luggage and camera, but still I think I have way too many things, but then think it will be cold and pack another jumper. Off to Berlin, for Taize meeting!!!!!
Saturday, 10 December 2011
French Guiana, 2010, (19. sept). [the snake encounter]
Saturday, 18th Sept
Today we slept long, until 7.30. before that I woke up several times, saw it is still dark and decided it is not morning yet. We went to the boulangerie, I had a small chocolate pastry. It was the first morning when my eyes were open enough not to need coffee and tea was enough. In addition to bread, we got an unexpected (it this even good to say in raiforest country!) downpour and were soaked. We walked around in Cayenne market, looked at fruit, dresses, earrings. Because H wanted to buy a hammock, we went to a hammock shop that was for locals. In there, a nice man told us that we will get a hammock cheaper and that K is a rich man to have three women. We also tok a picture with him in the shop and me and H bought colourful hammocks (one day I will have a place where to put it and remember this trip). We bought fishballs near the port, local Estonians' traditional food. We also walked there, saw a red ibis and crabs in the mud (it was low tide).A walk tot the hill and eating the fishballs!
After lunch, we went to the ocean for swim (I did not want to sand my peeling skin....unfortunately). Later whan H showed her bruises, I was happy I decided not to "sandpaper" my pain.
We went to a place where sloths live! It was a nature trail with good paths, hence we were wearing dress and sandals. Soon K showed us a sloth with baby! So cute! They were quite "fast" for current time, becuse they had babies [we were told they are slower when there are no babies]. They even went from branch to branch, "jumping" in slow motion. :) :) Soon we saw another sloth. We got to a wet part and H said she saw a bothrops in similar place. Walking after one another: Ku in front, H, me and Ka. I was immediately after H when suddenly I had a snake in front of me, waist high in the air (sith sinusoidal movement). It was black (dark? dark brown? dark grey?), 3-4cm diameter and about 1.5m long (as much as a panicked person can estimate. My reaction was to scream and run bacwards, past Ka. Ka had seen it too and wanted to shout "H", but I was quicker. I have emergency reaction! We waited a bit to make sure tha snake had left and continued our walk. Scary shock. H had not seen the snake, but had strangled "into it" as she described. She walked a few more steps and then we started screaming - only then had she realised what was the moving obstacle.
We drove back towards Matoury and in a petrol station a young boy started washing our can and talking to K. She came to the car and we went to another petrol station where he washed with pressure water. It was 2EUR, but he saw that Ka had 10EUR and said to give this too. We took him home, a village in another direction where we had to go.
Home, food, strange fruit, jackfruit. It was very strange, texture like mushroom, outside like sunflower seeds and no teste (or some taste, H did not like it). Later, an hour later we read (we were in the office.....with Internet) that seeds have to be removed outside or the room needs airing. And that the fruit is undigestable when not boiled. Vot siis (Estonian expression, untranslatable)
Evening, card writing. Yesterday I poster 6 cards, 7 waiting for stamps, today wrote 13 more.
Oh, when buying fishballs, the seller asked whether we are Russian (maybe because in Kourou space center there are Russians) and because we did not speak English or French to each other. In Salut island, the shopkeeper had asked whether we speak English and assumed we are English, but we explained that no, we are Estonians and just happen to speak English (and some of us, French).
[where this belongs....
In Salut Island, there were many agoutis who had eaten coconut.....they managed, whereas Ka broke a knife when trying to open one!)
Today we slept long, until 7.30. before that I woke up several times, saw it is still dark and decided it is not morning yet. We went to the boulangerie, I had a small chocolate pastry. It was the first morning when my eyes were open enough not to need coffee and tea was enough. In addition to bread, we got an unexpected (it this even good to say in raiforest country!) downpour and were soaked. We walked around in Cayenne market, looked at fruit, dresses, earrings. Because H wanted to buy a hammock, we went to a hammock shop that was for locals. In there, a nice man told us that we will get a hammock cheaper and that K is a rich man to have three women. We also tok a picture with him in the shop and me and H bought colourful hammocks (one day I will have a place where to put it and remember this trip). We bought fishballs near the port, local Estonians' traditional food. We also walked there, saw a red ibis and crabs in the mud (it was low tide).A walk tot the hill and eating the fishballs!
After lunch, we went to the ocean for swim (I did not want to sand my peeling skin....unfortunately). Later whan H showed her bruises, I was happy I decided not to "sandpaper" my pain.
We went to a place where sloths live! It was a nature trail with good paths, hence we were wearing dress and sandals. Soon K showed us a sloth with baby! So cute! They were quite "fast" for current time, becuse they had babies [we were told they are slower when there are no babies]. They even went from branch to branch, "jumping" in slow motion. :) :) Soon we saw another sloth. We got to a wet part and H said she saw a bothrops in similar place. Walking after one another: Ku in front, H, me and Ka. I was immediately after H when suddenly I had a snake in front of me, waist high in the air (sith sinusoidal movement). It was black (dark? dark brown? dark grey?), 3-4cm diameter and about 1.5m long (as much as a panicked person can estimate. My reaction was to scream and run bacwards, past Ka. Ka had seen it too and wanted to shout "H", but I was quicker. I have emergency reaction! We waited a bit to make sure tha snake had left and continued our walk. Scary shock. H had not seen the snake, but had strangled "into it" as she described. She walked a few more steps and then we started screaming - only then had she realised what was the moving obstacle.
We drove back towards Matoury and in a petrol station a young boy started washing our can and talking to K. She came to the car and we went to another petrol station where he washed with pressure water. It was 2EUR, but he saw that Ka had 10EUR and said to give this too. We took him home, a village in another direction where we had to go.
Home, food, strange fruit, jackfruit. It was very strange, texture like mushroom, outside like sunflower seeds and no teste (or some taste, H did not like it). Later, an hour later we read (we were in the office.....with Internet) that seeds have to be removed outside or the room needs airing. And that the fruit is undigestable when not boiled. Vot siis (Estonian expression, untranslatable)
Evening, card writing. Yesterday I poster 6 cards, 7 waiting for stamps, today wrote 13 more.
Oh, when buying fishballs, the seller asked whether we are Russian (maybe because in Kourou space center there are Russians) and because we did not speak English or French to each other. In Salut island, the shopkeeper had asked whether we speak English and assumed we are English, but we explained that no, we are Estonians and just happen to speak English (and some of us, French).
[where this belongs....
In Salut Island, there were many agoutis who had eaten coconut.....they managed, whereas Ka broke a knife when trying to open one!)
Friday, 2 December 2011
Andorra. short after-conference weekend trip
some pics of this trip
So, hiking has changed me so I can manage with a small suitcase for a week (semi- smart clothes) and managed to put hiking stuff also there (and a big empty rucksack as laptop bag)! I took a coach To Andorra!
The night the conference ended, I had looked on Google map which part has less roads and more nature, Arinsal! In Andorra la Vella, I knew I had to take another bus to Arinsal, but this was a bit later, so decided to but food (because siesta time was approaching and I was not sure how much food I can buy from Arinsal. Also, I had no idea from where the local buses go.
Finally, bus stopped in Arinsal. It was only one main road there and finding my accommodations (yes, because I did not take tent to the conference) should not have been difficult. It was. After putting my super-basic tourist vocabulary to test, I found it. I was asked whether I want a room with view to the road or mountain. What a question!
I also asked what time is breakfast, but it was too late, so I had to leave before (because days are short in October). I got a map and asked recommendations of where to go. They are good people, showed me on the map some nice routes.
I started the walk. Under a tunnel, then a bit of uncertainty, then the walk started to make sense, up, up, up, up. I did some calculations in my head, what time I should turn back to get down before sunset. First part of the walk was easy, or at least so it seemed to me. I arrived at a beautiful lake, then a refugi. Half way up, the streams were a bit froze and a bit of snow appeared. Frozen cold blueberries, I only realised I had entered winter wonderland when I thought about it and decided it might be food idea to put some warmer clothes on, I only had been wearing the fleece! (with rest of things in the backbag).
Yeh I had a bit of shock therapy too and because this blog is public, I cannot write it here.
Coming down, I was a bit late (no worries, the forest bit was relatively flat and I had the GPS trace from going up, so could follow the same route back. I am still convinced it is more dangerous to be in a city and come home from uni at 11pm than to be in forest).
Suddenly I heard a noise. Or no, it was not a noise, it was music. Afterall, Friday night. But.....it sounded like a tribe is sacrificing somebody. Brain check....I hope I do not have altitude sickness..... this is Europe....this is a catalan country.....they like snails and nice food...not eating humans. OK, maybe it a party, good percussion, maybe a salsa party! But it was not this kind of village to expect official party. So I switched off my light, just in case. Walked, walked, walked in dark. They were not cannibals, it was cows with wooden bells! little cows, big cows, a cow orchestra!
In the car park I found a lost-looking person. Yes I knew all too well that this can be a trap (what world I live in!), but not in the mountains and he was really looking on the map....and since I had a map AND GPS, I thought at least I can ask if help is needed. He was planning to go to Coma Pedrosa the next day and was planning and wondering how long it would take. I said I had been to the refugi and bit higher. I thought I dont't mind some company and going a bit higher again next day, since the previous day was rushed (I only started in the afternoon!)
I thought after all this walk, I could do with nice food (I had had lunch, and had enough food for dinner, but would be nice to go to some warm place. The only place that was still open (it was a small village) was next to my accommodation. I had not brushed my hair since the conference the day before, had been hiking.....went to ask what time they close. In 1 hour. I could have a shower, put on some non-waterproof, non-windproof, not-ancle supporting clothes and shoes. I asked, whether I should change or can just enter like a hiker. They waid a hiker look is fine. Had a good meal and a glass of wine.
Walk again.......a bit higher. Made mini-snowman at 1655 and had lunch there. Going down, I was really in pain. I had pain in the morning already, due to no training for weeks before the conference. At the end I was limping, coming down sideways because it was less painful to flex the knee. Lets blame the lack of walking poles! Going down 1500m is bad! (up is OK). I hate walking without a tent, I was thinking I could just put the tent up and make a cup of tea in the stove if I had it. No, luxury hiking nad staying in B&B is not for me!
Went back to village....had shower, put on a skirt and went to have a meal and wine again! Last night. The previous day I had asked about Coma Pedrosa. It was same people so I could tell them I went....not to top, but just until the snow got bad, 2655m.
Next day, breakfast and then bus to Andorra la Vella. I bought postcards and stamps to Europe (and they were surprised I am Estonian, not English).
A bit of walking around, window-shopping...and I had my coach to Barcelona Airport. Flight was a bit delayed and Easyjet has a special terminal that is faaaar away from the main building. Freezing weather in Luton, finally Birmingham.
Andorra is a beautiful country....would like to do a week-long walk there.
French Guiana, September 2010 (16-17 sept)
Long due post...... continuing from where I stopped a year ago!
Thursday, 16th Sept
We woke up at 5.20 and left home at 6, to get going before the traffic jams. Long way driving and the first stop was the hill of monkeys. Started walking when Ka's flipflop broke. Us 3 continued while she went back to come via another, shorter, way (it was a circular route). Nature was beautiful and I was the last one of us. Suddenly I saw a snake, or I thought I had seen is, went back half a meter to check who or what if was. It was a well-masked brown one, 30cm from the way we had walked. I showed to H, who had read THE book (about poisonous animals in French Guiana) and she thought is might be bothrops. Ku took a few pictures of it.
After that we were more careful and walked slower.
St Laurent du Maron was a town by the border of Suriname, only the river Maron separates them. The town is a prison town, but seems the most beautiful from the ones we had seen so far. Colourful houses, friendly people.
Bought some food before returning home and then wrote a mountain of postcards, because I had promised to send to a few people. My legs are burnt, red. Skin is still intact and I use lots of cream.
Friday, 17th September
Woke up 5.20. 7.20 was our ship from Kourou to Salut Island. First, King's Island, where the conditions had been the best for prisoners: a few hours of work and they made sure nobody escaped because this would make the living conditions more harsh. We walked around the island, ate lunch by the ocean (baguette and quite liquid camembert). Ku opened some coconuts. Ku and Ka also went swimming, me and H watched and took photos (I watched because my skin was already peeling away and was very painful, not a nice time to expose it to salt).
Another ship took us to St Joseph's Island where solitary prisoners had been kept. The ship could not go close, so we etered the island by small boat. Walking again, this island had signs everywhere "Do not go out of the path, dangerous". Going back, others were sunbathing on the ship, I covered my legs with a green towel that was constantly trying to escape due to strong wind.
At home we played board games. Jam bread with cheese, tea.....I do not remember more because wrote about this day the day after. Oh, I took many pictures of palm trees and ocean.
To be continued [yehhh it will be until 27th Sept]
Wednesday, 17 August 2011
Saturday, 2 July 2011
Friday, 1 July 2011
Tallinn
What do I need if it is warmer at night than the maximum day temperature in UK? deceded to take a fleece, just to wear in the UK and needed it. Without sleep, I got on coach at 5.25 slept a bit, then airport, good breakfast, slept on plane and Tallinn! Met Kristi. To our surprise, M who was supposed to come here on Wednesday, was still in city centre with luggage. He did not have time to put it in hostel, as he had booked a hostel in another town. we tried to hepl him to get the bus there, but they firstly did not speak English, then not good Estonian either, it is a Russin place.
Festival was good. M will come tomorrow as he was too tired to come back to town after his travels. Me and K had a walk around the Old Town, will take M there tomorrow too, lets hope I do not get lost!
Festival was good. M will come tomorrow as he was too tired to come back to town after his travels. Me and K had a walk around the Old Town, will take M there tomorrow too, lets hope I do not get lost!
Monday, 2 May 2011
Sardinia 2011, day 6, leaving day
In the morning, I had not enough time for breakfast, it was just running to the bus station (no trust in the local buses, especially on Easter Monday, I knew walking would eventually take me there. Bus 8.10. In the airport I found a post box to post my cards and it was time to check-in. Had good sleep on the plane.
Sardinia 2011, day 5, Easter Sunday
Breakfast: toast and coffee. I had hunger after that. I walked to the church, a small evangelical church that I could find in this town. Oggi è Pasqua per tutte le confessioni, so started the service. I understood a bit. Also to my surprise, one song was a Finnish traditional which I have never heard, and one was English. Afte rthe servide, one woman came to ask where I am from nad tried to speak Russian with me after hearing that I am from Estonia. Shocked as I was, of course I did not answer in Russian, the foreign languages I do not speak that often or well are all hidden in some remote place of my brain.
Planning to walk to the town centre, reading the map outside church, when one man came to speak.
"Buona Pasqua"
"Buona Pasqua"
"Sei olandese?"
"No sono Estone, sono a Cagliari per vacanza"
"Cosa fai?"
"Sono studentessa"
"Cosa studia?"
"Biologia"
I started to make my way to the place where I had agreed to meed K, without a phone (or phone charger) we had agreed on an exact time to meet). Suddenly I saw the aster procession and this made me wonder, why are they carrying Mary, dressed in black, on Easter Sunday. I followed it with the crowd and soon we were on the Via Roma, by the sea. Suddenly, they stopped, changed black clothes to white. At the same time, there was another procession coming from opposite direction, carrying Jesus. Now the two crowds joined, carrying both statues of Mary and Jesus in front. People were throuwing flower petals from balconies.
I had 2 h to walk. At 2 we met with K.
[.............................]
K had to find hostel to stay for 1 night, because the current place only had double rooms, she did not want to pay for 2 when she is staying alone. In the tourist information, we were told that there is a hostel that has single places in big rooms, however they are having an irish music festival and the hostel is full of bagpipe and flute players. It was, but she took a room there.
We also asked about flamingoes and were told in this weather, we cannot go there because buses don't run this Sunday and it is raining and too far to walk. Nevertheless, we got the location shown on the map and decided to walk there. In the nature park, a runner told us that in this weather flaminges keep to the far end, a place more hidden from the wind. He had not seen any in the main park that day. He gave us two roads to go to the end.
We selected one, but of course, after several kilometres of walking , we saw flaminges form the distance, but we were on the wrong side of the fence. There was another part of the saline, but this was also separated with a fence. Coming back, I trusted K rather than my GPS, which at some points was telling me that we were going wrong direction (yesterday's lesson, do not relay entirery on electonic things)
Finally, after arriving in a place where we had been already, I showed what triangles we had walked (Pythagoras, or favourite!).
By the time we arrived in hostel, it was 9.45, we had walked 25km in 5 hours (and average speed was over 5, most often 6, but there were stops to see the map or try to see what is other side of the fence).
31.5 is the total for this day, in town where we planned not much walking, quite good.
At home we cooked again, went to pay for the hostel and ask if I may make my own breakfast (I am able to make toast and coffee!) so that I could have it before 7, for example 6.30. Yes. She had a cat.
Planning to walk to the town centre, reading the map outside church, when one man came to speak.
"Buona Pasqua"
"Buona Pasqua"
"Sei olandese?"
"No sono Estone, sono a Cagliari per vacanza"
"Cosa fai?"
"Sono studentessa"
"Cosa studia?"
"Biologia"
I started to make my way to the place where I had agreed to meed K, without a phone (or phone charger) we had agreed on an exact time to meet). Suddenly I saw the aster procession and this made me wonder, why are they carrying Mary, dressed in black, on Easter Sunday. I followed it with the crowd and soon we were on the Via Roma, by the sea. Suddenly, they stopped, changed black clothes to white. At the same time, there was another procession coming from opposite direction, carrying Jesus. Now the two crowds joined, carrying both statues of Mary and Jesus in front. People were throuwing flower petals from balconies.
I had 2 h to walk. At 2 we met with K.
[.............................]
K had to find hostel to stay for 1 night, because the current place only had double rooms, she did not want to pay for 2 when she is staying alone. In the tourist information, we were told that there is a hostel that has single places in big rooms, however they are having an irish music festival and the hostel is full of bagpipe and flute players. It was, but she took a room there.
We also asked about flamingoes and were told in this weather, we cannot go there because buses don't run this Sunday and it is raining and too far to walk. Nevertheless, we got the location shown on the map and decided to walk there. In the nature park, a runner told us that in this weather flaminges keep to the far end, a place more hidden from the wind. He had not seen any in the main park that day. He gave us two roads to go to the end.
We selected one, but of course, after several kilometres of walking , we saw flaminges form the distance, but we were on the wrong side of the fence. There was another part of the saline, but this was also separated with a fence. Coming back, I trusted K rather than my GPS, which at some points was telling me that we were going wrong direction (yesterday's lesson, do not relay entirery on electonic things)
Finally, after arriving in a place where we had been already, I showed what triangles we had walked (Pythagoras, or favourite!).
By the time we arrived in hostel, it was 9.45, we had walked 25km in 5 hours (and average speed was over 5, most often 6, but there were stops to see the map or try to see what is other side of the fence).
31.5 is the total for this day, in town where we planned not much walking, quite good.
At home we cooked again, went to pay for the hostel and ask if I may make my own breakfast (I am able to make toast and coffee!) so that I could have it before 7, for example 6.30. Yes. She had a cat.
Sardinia 2011, day 4
Wake up 6.25, tent packed, sleeping bad packed. My fleece smells of damp. Breakfast was supergood. Bread (empty inside, to put butter (burro) inside. And ricotta cake with lemon, all made by S's Mother. S told us that once there had been an American, who came there and spoke only English, expecting everybody to understand English. This is the reason why it is better for us, non-native English speakers to speak a few words of local language than English, because the experience is better. We ar enot only limited to speaking in the tourist information centre. Of course, it depends on country, Germans seem to like speaking English, or maybe they can hear the English accent in my German or maybe the basic tourist German I speak is so bad.....every time I ask something from somebody on the streets, they answer in English....or maybe it is because the times when I could speak German I have only been in Berlin and Cologne). I was very impressed when once long time ago, we were in Germany with the orchestra and K, my classmate, maybe 14 years old, could go to a small shop (the one where we had to ask what we needed to buy) and speak in German, despite the fact that we only learnt English and Russian at school.
We spoke limited Italian and a mix of good Spanish and limited Italian, trying to speak no English. She seemed happy about us trying to speak her language, despite the fact that we both speak good English. We were given a cake to eat on the way - it is strange for Estonians to eat sweet things in the morning, at least for us! We said that one slice for each, but she insisted in giving 2, saying that 1 is not possible, in Sardinia, 2 at least. She also showed a book about Sardinia, about the culture, caves.
Bus stop. The times there were totally different. We crossed the road to ask some locals, but by the time we had explained our question, they showed us that the bus is coming. The Internet timetable had been correct.
K had to run to buy the ticket, whilst I had a shock when somebody came to ask whether I need help. Shock not about somebody wanting to help, but there was nothing to help with, I just had 2 rucksacks to put on the bus, mine and K's.
Bus was warm again. In Nuoro, we made our way to the town centre, trying to find the tourist information. There were signs, but none of the led to the tourist information. The town is at 550m, with clear sk we would have not needed a tourist information, could have enjoyed the views, but with rain pouring down, a museum or gallery was what we needed. One police officer, told us that there is none, but wanted to know why we need it. "Non lo so, ho 5 ora, vorrei fare qualcosa". OK, he showed us the direction to the museums. Again, we saw signs for tourist information.
First, we went to the market, where understood at the cheese counter how little foreign language is actually needed. K asked "Questo animali, moo or mää" and got answer for every cheese about the animal whose milk had been used.
We went to an art gallery, not local art, but the exhibition was about the art of aborigens. After that it was still raining and it was still time until everything would close, 1pm. We was a sign for costume museum. Walked, walked, asked whether we are on correct way, they said "E vicino". By that time we had learnt that all the lontano and vicino are relative, but finally we arrived. It was museum of etnography, very interesting.
After that is was time to make our way to the other end of the town, to the bus station. Bus t Cagliari, after a conversation with a very helpful local who warned us not to go on the bus that arrived earlier because it is not direct and would take 5 hours, whereas the later one is direct and would take 2.5h.
Looking for the hostel, again we were tol it is lontano. OK, after finding out the bus number and spending long time trying to find out what is the correct direction (but nobody seemed to understand, it was not like Estonia where we need to take the bus from correct side of road, it was the central square), I asked the bus driver to tell us when we arrive at Piazza Republica. He did. On that square, we again asked way to a street we had to take. Got the way, it was already time to turn when we saw the person we had asked the way from was coming after us, teling us not to turn, as we were on the correct road. I explained that we actually needed to turn to other road and he was happy then. At the seemingly correct place, there was no hoste, at least we could not see. We asked locals, they also said they do not know a hostel like that there. it was number 10. They said they know other hostel nearby, but offered to accompany us to the one we had booked online. On the door of flats, there was a tiny sign. K rang the doorbell, we opened the door and were greeted by two small boys shouting "CIAO". Their mum showed us to the second floor flat, where the boys immediately got inside the wardrobe, and I think one even started to cry when he hurt himself whilst running around.
This evening we only went to the shop to buy food, next day was going to be Easter Sunday, so everything would be closed. Again, we were directed by a man, to a direction where there was no shop (by that time we should have learnt that very ofter they would show left whilst saying destra and show right whilst showing sinistra, nad every time I would first doubt my language skills, befire realising that I also had this problem when learning to drive).
OK, next try, we found a shop.
We also had 3 flatmates, 3 girls studying "education". K spoke Spanish with them so I did not understand much.
We spoke limited Italian and a mix of good Spanish and limited Italian, trying to speak no English. She seemed happy about us trying to speak her language, despite the fact that we both speak good English. We were given a cake to eat on the way - it is strange for Estonians to eat sweet things in the morning, at least for us! We said that one slice for each, but she insisted in giving 2, saying that 1 is not possible, in Sardinia, 2 at least. She also showed a book about Sardinia, about the culture, caves.
Bus stop. The times there were totally different. We crossed the road to ask some locals, but by the time we had explained our question, they showed us that the bus is coming. The Internet timetable had been correct.
K had to run to buy the ticket, whilst I had a shock when somebody came to ask whether I need help. Shock not about somebody wanting to help, but there was nothing to help with, I just had 2 rucksacks to put on the bus, mine and K's.
Bus was warm again. In Nuoro, we made our way to the town centre, trying to find the tourist information. There were signs, but none of the led to the tourist information. The town is at 550m, with clear sk we would have not needed a tourist information, could have enjoyed the views, but with rain pouring down, a museum or gallery was what we needed. One police officer, told us that there is none, but wanted to know why we need it. "Non lo so, ho 5 ora, vorrei fare qualcosa". OK, he showed us the direction to the museums. Again, we saw signs for tourist information.
First, we went to the market, where understood at the cheese counter how little foreign language is actually needed. K asked "Questo animali, moo or mää" and got answer for every cheese about the animal whose milk had been used.
We went to an art gallery, not local art, but the exhibition was about the art of aborigens. After that it was still raining and it was still time until everything would close, 1pm. We was a sign for costume museum. Walked, walked, asked whether we are on correct way, they said "E vicino". By that time we had learnt that all the lontano and vicino are relative, but finally we arrived. It was museum of etnography, very interesting.
After that is was time to make our way to the other end of the town, to the bus station. Bus t Cagliari, after a conversation with a very helpful local who warned us not to go on the bus that arrived earlier because it is not direct and would take 5 hours, whereas the later one is direct and would take 2.5h.
Looking for the hostel, again we were tol it is lontano. OK, after finding out the bus number and spending long time trying to find out what is the correct direction (but nobody seemed to understand, it was not like Estonia where we need to take the bus from correct side of road, it was the central square), I asked the bus driver to tell us when we arrive at Piazza Republica. He did. On that square, we again asked way to a street we had to take. Got the way, it was already time to turn when we saw the person we had asked the way from was coming after us, teling us not to turn, as we were on the correct road. I explained that we actually needed to turn to other road and he was happy then. At the seemingly correct place, there was no hoste, at least we could not see. We asked locals, they also said they do not know a hostel like that there. it was number 10. They said they know other hostel nearby, but offered to accompany us to the one we had booked online. On the door of flats, there was a tiny sign. K rang the doorbell, we opened the door and were greeted by two small boys shouting "CIAO". Their mum showed us to the second floor flat, where the boys immediately got inside the wardrobe, and I think one even started to cry when he hurt himself whilst running around.
This evening we only went to the shop to buy food, next day was going to be Easter Sunday, so everything would be closed. Again, we were directed by a man, to a direction where there was no shop (by that time we should have learnt that very ofter they would show left whilst saying destra and show right whilst showing sinistra, nad every time I would first doubt my language skills, befire realising that I also had this problem when learning to drive).
OK, next try, we found a shop.
We also had 3 flatmates, 3 girls studying "education". K spoke Spanish with them so I did not understand much.
Sardinia 2011, day 3
It was time to brush my teeth, this first, as is was too cold for a cold shower just after waking up, or maybe not, the difference between water and outside temperature was not much! And then, the cold shower, was actually good. K thinks I am well-adapted to cold climate, used to that in the UK (or rather lack or temperature changes, as in Estonia it is quite normal to go from -25 outside to a house with +25. Or from sauna to outside.
After the shower and dressed, it was not even cold any more! It was raining a bit, so it could have been colder with clear sky. This night, cold was not problem, fear of steps and our tent being "on display" was more of a concern. I wrote the diary, while sitting under a roof, an eating place, with my sleeping bag wrapped around me, K was still sleeping. A bit or running gave me more warmth.
8.30, tent packed, waiting. G came as promised and took us to Nuoro by car! On the way we learnt that he has 25 donkeys. K said that it sounded like 1 donkey, but he said for us, 1 donkey, for him 25. [and even later we wearnt that donkey is not burro in Italian - a lesson learnt while having breakfast the next day, when butter has burro written on it. Anyway, he understood].
Our bus was 10.30, as we learnt when trying to read the timetable, when locals, knowing that there was probably one bus that time and asked whether we want to go to Dorgali. Yes. We also read that in order to get the 14.25 bus to Cagliari on Saturday, we have to take 8.25 bus from Dorgali to Nuoro. Just to be sure, we decided to ask, whether the bus also goes this Saturday (because it was just before Easter Sunday), so "Vorrei andare a Cagliari il Sabatu. A che ora parte?"
It was warm on the bus, very warm, in contrast to the outside. After an hour, we arrived in Dorgali. Rain was stronger, strong enough to make ourselves more waterproof, so we decided to go to a cafe. Again, although it was still morning and everybody was eating sweet things, we asked whether they have something more lunch-like, because we have "molto fame".
Now in my notebook, there are several B&B addresses. Yes, we decided to sleep inside, firstly because we did not know any campsite, not having searched for this area before, secondly, campsites are outside town and we need to take 8.25 bus in the morning. Thirdly, because of the rain (not a good reason, I know!).
So we went to an Internet place, searched hostelworld, to find it is nothing in this town. From somewhere we found several addresses we decided to find. And we also checked bus timetable to Cala Gonone, a town next to the sea. Looking for the correct street in the rain, there was a museum or something closing and we went to ask. He was leaving work and said it is far and e can take us in car (-quanto kilometri? -1. -1 non lontano! -Siamo non terroristi). Hesitating and trying to get directions....
In the house there was S, a friendly woman. She showed us about the area and also about Cala Gonone. We said we are going there at 1.55 bus. She said there is bus leaving at 5 and coming back at 8. We tried to explain that we had looked from the Internet and there was also earlier time, but probably the message got "lost in translation". She said she is going to Cala Gonone with her mother this afternoon and we could also go there with them. They asked if we have umbrellas. No [this would be inconfortable whilst travelling, I don't even have one in England], they lent me one. K did not want, she kept saying that she has a plastic poncho - they did not understand why she likes this plastic thing!
We ate and than walked to the bus stop to check the times and to the tourist information. We had 3h. Before us there was an English family, who spoke English and no other languages. We got advice to go to the seaside.
We had been there before, the moment we came to this town. Now we went to other side, listening to the loud noise stones make when the wave is leaving. After an hour or more (don't really know) or climbing on the stones and taking many pictures, it was time for the bus. 8.20. The bus stopped on a main road, a big one, outside town. We were very surprised, but he showed us a direction of how to get to the town. Hour or so of being lost, we arrived in the B&B. Warm shower sleep in the bed, while tent is spread out on the floor - to dry.
After the shower and dressed, it was not even cold any more! It was raining a bit, so it could have been colder with clear sky. This night, cold was not problem, fear of steps and our tent being "on display" was more of a concern. I wrote the diary, while sitting under a roof, an eating place, with my sleeping bag wrapped around me, K was still sleeping. A bit or running gave me more warmth.
8.30, tent packed, waiting. G came as promised and took us to Nuoro by car! On the way we learnt that he has 25 donkeys. K said that it sounded like 1 donkey, but he said for us, 1 donkey, for him 25. [and even later we wearnt that donkey is not burro in Italian - a lesson learnt while having breakfast the next day, when butter has burro written on it. Anyway, he understood].
Our bus was 10.30, as we learnt when trying to read the timetable, when locals, knowing that there was probably one bus that time and asked whether we want to go to Dorgali. Yes. We also read that in order to get the 14.25 bus to Cagliari on Saturday, we have to take 8.25 bus from Dorgali to Nuoro. Just to be sure, we decided to ask, whether the bus also goes this Saturday (because it was just before Easter Sunday), so "Vorrei andare a Cagliari il Sabatu. A che ora parte?"
It was warm on the bus, very warm, in contrast to the outside. After an hour, we arrived in Dorgali. Rain was stronger, strong enough to make ourselves more waterproof, so we decided to go to a cafe. Again, although it was still morning and everybody was eating sweet things, we asked whether they have something more lunch-like, because we have "molto fame".
Now in my notebook, there are several B&B addresses. Yes, we decided to sleep inside, firstly because we did not know any campsite, not having searched for this area before, secondly, campsites are outside town and we need to take 8.25 bus in the morning. Thirdly, because of the rain (not a good reason, I know!).
So we went to an Internet place, searched hostelworld, to find it is nothing in this town. From somewhere we found several addresses we decided to find. And we also checked bus timetable to Cala Gonone, a town next to the sea. Looking for the correct street in the rain, there was a museum or something closing and we went to ask. He was leaving work and said it is far and e can take us in car (-quanto kilometri? -1. -1 non lontano! -Siamo non terroristi). Hesitating and trying to get directions....
In the house there was S, a friendly woman. She showed us about the area and also about Cala Gonone. We said we are going there at 1.55 bus. She said there is bus leaving at 5 and coming back at 8. We tried to explain that we had looked from the Internet and there was also earlier time, but probably the message got "lost in translation". She said she is going to Cala Gonone with her mother this afternoon and we could also go there with them. They asked if we have umbrellas. No [this would be inconfortable whilst travelling, I don't even have one in England], they lent me one. K did not want, she kept saying that she has a plastic poncho - they did not understand why she likes this plastic thing!
We ate and than walked to the bus stop to check the times and to the tourist information. We had 3h. Before us there was an English family, who spoke English and no other languages. We got advice to go to the seaside.
We had been there before, the moment we came to this town. Now we went to other side, listening to the loud noise stones make when the wave is leaving. After an hour or more (don't really know) or climbing on the stones and taking many pictures, it was time for the bus. 8.20. The bus stopped on a main road, a big one, outside town. We were very surprised, but he showed us a direction of how to get to the town. Hour or so of being lost, we arrived in the B&B. Warm shower sleep in the bed, while tent is spread out on the floor - to dry.
Monday, 25 April 2011
Sardinia 2011, day 2
Thursday, April 21st
"*********** what a view!" is the first thing K says when she sees the place in daylight. I wonder off to find the campsite, hoping to find some people or the actual site. Nobody. OK, we hide our stuff amonght trees, the brightly green tent is visible, but what can we do. breakfast, nad off we go, hoping that maybe during the day somebody will come to the site.I also send a text, asking if it is possible to camp there this day.
Walk witht he help of GPS, to Monte Ortobene, to Redentore. Journey was nice, with good view, good weather (no rain, no sun too hot). On the way there are several pizzerias, all closed and the whole place seems deserted.
From far away we see some building works on top of the hill and on arrival, with several signs indicating for Redentore, we see that the building works are around the statue. There is a sigh, saying that the work will be finished in October 2010. Lunch at 913 metres with good view.
Two men also came to see the view, but left soon. When going back, we saw several other people going towards the top.
When going back, K saw a path, thinking it might be a shortcut. As we had no hurry, we did not take it. Later, when I saw another path going up, I was determined to go and see what is there.
K thought is is just an erosion path, but I saw some footsteps. Got up and had to disappoing K who was half way down. It was the same shortcut!
Back at the tent, we saw a car. We followed it and it was the campsite owner!!!!!!!!!! We said we wanted to stay for the night and he asked what time we need to leave. Because our initial plan had been to Take bus from Nuoro at 7, and it had taken us 3.5 hours to get near the campsite, K had plans of leaving at 3. He was surprised, confused or whatever somebody might think when told something strange. he said he would not be there that early. He said it is possible to go to Nuoro in 1h.
We said we had been to Redentore statue and he said it is closed because the season had not started yet. Also, he warned us that there is only cold water.
After piching our tent, we decided to go and pay, and maybe ask about the correct way to the town or maybe where he would recommend us to go. He said he would give us a map, invited us to a stone hut and gave us espresso. He thought is is not worth going to Sassari and North coast because we would spend too much time on the bus. Maybe a good idea, what I had been thinking after I checked the bus times. We were advised to go east from Nuoro, to Dorgali and Cala Gonone and then on Saturday from Nuoro to Cagliari (because Sunday is Easter Sunday and no transport and we had already booked a hostel in Cagliari).
The village, Cala Gonone is by the sea and when we said it is too cold for swimming anyway, he said that some years ago some other Nordic people went swimming with cold weather.
He was very helpful and tried to phone to the bus company, for the bus times. but no luck. Every time I travel, I meet some friendly and helpful people, amazing!
In the evening we went for walk in a nearby park where people walk their dogs. Nice sunset from high altitude! We climbed up some rocks to see even better view. Super! So beautiful colours and two villages or towns far away in lights, with mountains blending into the warm sunset sky.
We could also see Monte Ortobene!
Back at "home", we ate our last 2 breads and 2 tins of tuna nad half a muesly baton each.
Sleeping in the tent was cold again, but this evening more scary too. He had left lights on, to advertise to everybody who happens to wonder there: here are some people! We heard steps, the dogs were barking. It was definitely humans, not my imagination. At some poiint I was thinking we should move our tent back to some hidden place out of light. Fortunately, nothing happened, maybe they were just wanderers, curious to see whet is there. I slept until 6.30.
"*********** what a view!" is the first thing K says when she sees the place in daylight. I wonder off to find the campsite, hoping to find some people or the actual site. Nobody. OK, we hide our stuff amonght trees, the brightly green tent is visible, but what can we do. breakfast, nad off we go, hoping that maybe during the day somebody will come to the site.I also send a text, asking if it is possible to camp there this day.
Walk witht he help of GPS, to Monte Ortobene, to Redentore. Journey was nice, with good view, good weather (no rain, no sun too hot). On the way there are several pizzerias, all closed and the whole place seems deserted.
From far away we see some building works on top of the hill and on arrival, with several signs indicating for Redentore, we see that the building works are around the statue. There is a sigh, saying that the work will be finished in October 2010. Lunch at 913 metres with good view.
Two men also came to see the view, but left soon. When going back, we saw several other people going towards the top.
When going back, K saw a path, thinking it might be a shortcut. As we had no hurry, we did not take it. Later, when I saw another path going up, I was determined to go and see what is there.
K thought is is just an erosion path, but I saw some footsteps. Got up and had to disappoing K who was half way down. It was the same shortcut!
Back at the tent, we saw a car. We followed it and it was the campsite owner!!!!!!!!!! We said we wanted to stay for the night and he asked what time we need to leave. Because our initial plan had been to Take bus from Nuoro at 7, and it had taken us 3.5 hours to get near the campsite, K had plans of leaving at 3. He was surprised, confused or whatever somebody might think when told something strange. he said he would not be there that early. He said it is possible to go to Nuoro in 1h.
We said we had been to Redentore statue and he said it is closed because the season had not started yet. Also, he warned us that there is only cold water.
After piching our tent, we decided to go and pay, and maybe ask about the correct way to the town or maybe where he would recommend us to go. He said he would give us a map, invited us to a stone hut and gave us espresso. He thought is is not worth going to Sassari and North coast because we would spend too much time on the bus. Maybe a good idea, what I had been thinking after I checked the bus times. We were advised to go east from Nuoro, to Dorgali and Cala Gonone and then on Saturday from Nuoro to Cagliari (because Sunday is Easter Sunday and no transport and we had already booked a hostel in Cagliari).
The village, Cala Gonone is by the sea and when we said it is too cold for swimming anyway, he said that some years ago some other Nordic people went swimming with cold weather.
He was very helpful and tried to phone to the bus company, for the bus times. but no luck. Every time I travel, I meet some friendly and helpful people, amazing!
In the evening we went for walk in a nearby park where people walk their dogs. Nice sunset from high altitude! We climbed up some rocks to see even better view. Super! So beautiful colours and two villages or towns far away in lights, with mountains blending into the warm sunset sky.
We could also see Monte Ortobene!
Back at "home", we ate our last 2 breads and 2 tins of tuna nad half a muesly baton each.
Sleeping in the tent was cold again, but this evening more scary too. He had left lights on, to advertise to everybody who happens to wonder there: here are some people! We heard steps, the dogs were barking. It was definitely humans, not my imagination. At some poiint I was thinking we should move our tent back to some hidden place out of light. Fortunately, nothing happened, maybe they were just wanderers, curious to see whet is there. I slept until 6.30.
Sardinia 2011, day 1
Tuesday, 19th, Wednesday, 20th
Evening panic, ike always before travel, I start packing and organising too late, trying to find some more coordinates of places, check bus times, print out hostel confirmations, online check in etc. I was going to watch a movie with D before going to Digbeth, but no time. Taxi to Digbeth at midnight, taxi driver asks for my name, it does not match. OK, I can go in the taxi, but then he asks whether I use my phone or my brother's, dad's, boyfriend's. No, it is my phone! And then I remember once A booked a taxi with my phone, so the have his name!
Digbeth is nice compared to what it was 2 years ago. Sleeeeeeep in the coach until 4. Stansted. At the moment I board the plane, my eyes are closed, I did not even see the safety talk. Arrive in Cagliari, see ticket machine, buy ticket. Now I have a ticket, but no bus stpo. OK, I have time until K arrives, although I need to buy food for 4 days and her bus ticket too, so need to get to town centre. I decide to try my language and ask somebody who works in the aeroport.
"Scusi, dove e la fermata di autobus?"
"Non lo so"
Fimally I found it and texted the location to K. In town centre I bought tickets to Nuoro, walked, walked, walked and waited for K. I was also looking for a supermarket to buy food. Again I managed not to use any English:
"Scusa, che il supermercado qui vicino?"
"Dritto, sinistra, destra"
I bought bread, tinned tuna, cheese, muesli bars. When buying bread, I saw little breads, 'pani integrale' and asked these. At first everything seemed OK< she asked how many, but then started to show me a wholemeal bread, saying something I did not understand. She showed the small ones, then big and I was very confused. Finally, with some kind of sign language she underatood that I wanted the small ones, although I did not really mind. I just wanted some bread to eat!
Sitting in a cafe, eating late breakfast, or the second one of today and writing the diary, I decide to check about the pane integrale. Yes, it is both "whole bread" and "wholemeal". It is quite warm, but locals wear a winter coat, like we wear in Estonia when it is +5. it is +20 and I am wearing short sleeves and would like to change my walking boots for sandals, but walking boots are more heavy.... I wonder how heaby is my bag, forgot to check in the aeroport.
I just realised I do not know what time it is. Does my phone detect the time zone change? Sometimes it does, but then every time I travel, it first refuses to connect to any network, managed in Spain, Germany, France, but in Estonia still cannot. Oh well, lets try some speaking again.
"Scusa, a che ora e?"
"Sono uno e dieci"
"Grazie"
I gave up walking anywhere far, just near the port, and now trying to re-pack my rucksack, fitting all food in. A bit more waiting and I decide to go to the bus station. Only then I realise that what if Kaija's plane is delayed, what if she cannot get to town on time for the once-daily bus? Suddenly I get a text from her, saying thet she is in the airport and will be in town in half an hour. :)
Waiting in the bus station, people come to ask where I want to go, they think I am lost because I have waited so long time, always looking around. No I a, just waiting for my friend.
Suddenly I see a girl, quite blond compared to locals.
On the bus, at some point K imagines that she can hear Estonian. No. we conclude it is all Italian. It is getting more hilly, although a moment ago the view looked like Tallinn-Tartu Road in Estonia. Arriving in Nuoro, high hopes to find the campsite soon. Walk, wlak, walk, after having a map reading session the park. We ask way in multiple languages. Some say it is molto lontano and impossibile andare a piedi. Some say it is vicino, 10 minutes. We see multiple signs for the site, saying it is aperto, but the site is not there. Finally in the dark we ask some people and they say it is 10 minutes again, doubtingly we ask do they mean by walking. Yes. OK, lets walk more. At another sigh, K is so tired that decides to stop. I leave my bag and run forward, to check if the campsite is somewhere near. I saw another turning, hoping this is it, call K and full of hope, we go again, only to arrive at a locked gate. We call the number, no answer. Call mobile phone, no answer. OK, there is no fence, so we climb up a bit and put our tent not at the campsite, but amongst rocks and trees. We have no energy to go forward to the cmapsite and check if there is anybody, lets just sleep and see whet morning brings. We had bread with olive oil and salad and off to sleep. It is possible to fit 2 people in a1 person tent! I just could not think of carrying a two-person tent, especially as I would have had to borrow it from my friend and he said it is "less than 10kg", quite informative answer, when my 1 person tent is 1.65kg. Night is cold, very cold, I frequently wake up, but we are at 800 metres, quite high.
Evening panic, ike always before travel, I start packing and organising too late, trying to find some more coordinates of places, check bus times, print out hostel confirmations, online check in etc. I was going to watch a movie with D before going to Digbeth, but no time. Taxi to Digbeth at midnight, taxi driver asks for my name, it does not match. OK, I can go in the taxi, but then he asks whether I use my phone or my brother's, dad's, boyfriend's. No, it is my phone! And then I remember once A booked a taxi with my phone, so the have his name!
Digbeth is nice compared to what it was 2 years ago. Sleeeeeeep in the coach until 4. Stansted. At the moment I board the plane, my eyes are closed, I did not even see the safety talk. Arrive in Cagliari, see ticket machine, buy ticket. Now I have a ticket, but no bus stpo. OK, I have time until K arrives, although I need to buy food for 4 days and her bus ticket too, so need to get to town centre. I decide to try my language and ask somebody who works in the aeroport.
"Scusi, dove e la fermata di autobus?"
"Non lo so"
Fimally I found it and texted the location to K. In town centre I bought tickets to Nuoro, walked, walked, walked and waited for K. I was also looking for a supermarket to buy food. Again I managed not to use any English:
"Scusa, che il supermercado qui vicino?"
"Dritto, sinistra, destra"
I bought bread, tinned tuna, cheese, muesli bars. When buying bread, I saw little breads, 'pani integrale' and asked these. At first everything seemed OK< she asked how many, but then started to show me a wholemeal bread, saying something I did not understand. She showed the small ones, then big and I was very confused. Finally, with some kind of sign language she underatood that I wanted the small ones, although I did not really mind. I just wanted some bread to eat!
Sitting in a cafe, eating late breakfast, or the second one of today and writing the diary, I decide to check about the pane integrale. Yes, it is both "whole bread" and "wholemeal". It is quite warm, but locals wear a winter coat, like we wear in Estonia when it is +5. it is +20 and I am wearing short sleeves and would like to change my walking boots for sandals, but walking boots are more heavy.... I wonder how heaby is my bag, forgot to check in the aeroport.
I just realised I do not know what time it is. Does my phone detect the time zone change? Sometimes it does, but then every time I travel, it first refuses to connect to any network, managed in Spain, Germany, France, but in Estonia still cannot. Oh well, lets try some speaking again.
"Scusa, a che ora e?"
"Sono uno e dieci"
"Grazie"
I gave up walking anywhere far, just near the port, and now trying to re-pack my rucksack, fitting all food in. A bit more waiting and I decide to go to the bus station. Only then I realise that what if Kaija's plane is delayed, what if she cannot get to town on time for the once-daily bus? Suddenly I get a text from her, saying thet she is in the airport and will be in town in half an hour. :)
Waiting in the bus station, people come to ask where I want to go, they think I am lost because I have waited so long time, always looking around. No I a, just waiting for my friend.
Suddenly I see a girl, quite blond compared to locals.
On the bus, at some point K imagines that she can hear Estonian. No. we conclude it is all Italian. It is getting more hilly, although a moment ago the view looked like Tallinn-Tartu Road in Estonia. Arriving in Nuoro, high hopes to find the campsite soon. Walk, wlak, walk, after having a map reading session the park. We ask way in multiple languages. Some say it is molto lontano and impossibile andare a piedi. Some say it is vicino, 10 minutes. We see multiple signs for the site, saying it is aperto, but the site is not there. Finally in the dark we ask some people and they say it is 10 minutes again, doubtingly we ask do they mean by walking. Yes. OK, lets walk more. At another sigh, K is so tired that decides to stop. I leave my bag and run forward, to check if the campsite is somewhere near. I saw another turning, hoping this is it, call K and full of hope, we go again, only to arrive at a locked gate. We call the number, no answer. Call mobile phone, no answer. OK, there is no fence, so we climb up a bit and put our tent not at the campsite, but amongst rocks and trees. We have no energy to go forward to the cmapsite and check if there is anybody, lets just sleep and see whet morning brings. We had bread with olive oil and salad and off to sleep. It is possible to fit 2 people in a1 person tent! I just could not think of carrying a two-person tent, especially as I would have had to borrow it from my friend and he said it is "less than 10kg", quite informative answer, when my 1 person tent is 1.65kg. Night is cold, very cold, I frequently wake up, but we are at 800 metres, quite high.
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